Vancouver Island is a treasure trove of outdoor nature adventures! We drove the south route discovering tons of amazing adventures to share with you! Victoria to Qualicum Beach/Bowser (4 nights), then on to Port Renfrew (3 nights) and then back to Victoria (4 nights). There is an abundance of adventures listed here – just pick a few ideas per day, from our 11 day epic road trip!
Epic 11 Day Road Trip
Table of Contents
Day 1: (2.5 hr drive Victoria to Bowser)
Mitchell’s Farm Market
On the way south of Victoria Airport / Swartz Bay Ferry, on Patricia Bay 17 Highway, start your trip right with some fresh local fruit from the market or stay for lunch at the Harvest Road Farm to Table outdoor café for $13 hearty burgers or vegetarian garden baguettes.
West Shawnigan Lake Provincial Park
Take a 10-min stop for a short walk through an incredible little forest and a quick jump in the lake if it’s hot out (water shoes recommended – beach is pebbly). West Shawnigan Lake Provincial Park is a great place to break out an inflatable kayak, floaty or stand-up paddle board if you have one, or just walk and stretch your legs! It’s a very small park, but a nice break from driving. (free, outhouses)
Kinsol Trestle Bridge
This is a stunning wooden trestle bridge that the railroad used to run on, which has been converted into a walking bridge. The path is wide, flat and easy (unless you decide to walk way down to the river!), and it is open to horseback riders, cyclists and hikers. The bridge is about 614 feet long and 145 feet tall, making it one of the tallest freestanding timber rail trestles in the world. Although it was built in 1920, engineers completed a rehabilitation project on it in 2011 which included adding additional safety measures (I’m nervous with heights, and it felt extremely sturdy to me if that helps!). (free, open daily, outhouse in parking lot, 45-60 min easy return walk)
Unsworth Winery
There are lots of small winery options near Lake Shawnigan to enjoy! I picked Unsworth Winery as it was beautiful, on the driving route and had a relaxed atmosphere. Known for their award winning Rosé and Sparkling Wines, they offer $5 & $10 tastings (note that most wineries are no longer waiving fees even if you’re buying wine). Enjoy an unpretentious 3 or 5 wine tasting, set in their open-air garden by a water feature and soak up the sun. Be sure to have a designated driver. ($5-10, open 11-5 daily, washrooms)
Optional extra – Woosterville Mini-Llamas
Woosterville Farm tours are by appointment ($5 kids, $10 adults).
Optional extra – Cowichan Bay whale watching tour
Cowichan Bay boat tours range from about 4-8 hours, and cost around $150-$280. You can do whale watching tours in Parksville and Victoria as well.
Chemainus Mural Walk (and ice cream!)
Over 40 professionally painted outdoor murals can be seen within a short walking distance! Park in Water Wheel Park, grab a map from the nearby Visitor Centre by the Museum (or look at the map on your phone), pick up an ice cream cone at Scoops by the Sea across the street and follow the yellow painted footprints on the sidewalks around the centre of town! There is also a candy shop, labyrinth and topiaries in the shapes of animals. (murals and maps are free, ice cream is $5-10, public washrooms on Chemanius Rd across from Mill Street)
Stocking Creek Hike
This is a truly magical forest walk! I can’t recommend this enough! It’s a quiet, peaceful and serene green forest, perfect to get into a vacation mode. Watch your heart-rate drop as you connect with nature! Stocking Creek is for a 2.4 km easy hike (40 min loop) located about 10 mins north of Chemainus with onsite parking. (free)
Nanaimo
We grabbed supper at the Crow and Gate British Pub just out of town (sorry, no minors allowed), which is located in a beautiful English Garden (eat outside by the garden or inside in the darkened traditional Tudor Pub). The classic steak & wild mushroom pie with added stilton cheese sauce was amazing, as was the Farmers Plate with 1/2 scotch egg ($16). After supper (or while you’re on the pub waitlist to get in), tour the extensive gardens and grab some great photo portraits with the flowers! In town, you can walk the Nanaimo old city quarter colourful buildings, stop by a waterfront patio to watch the ferry with a pint, check out the outdoor market by the Bastion fort watchtower, or pick up some groceries if you’re headed out to a cabin.
Bowser Cabin
We stayed in Bowser (20 mins north of Qualicum Beach) with it’s quiet town and lovely cabins, in a Waterfront Micro-cabin with an ocean view, private access to the public rock-beach and wonderful outdoor heated shower on the back of the cabin, through AirBnB for $140/night. Staying in Qualicum or Parksville are also really great options for quick proximity to sandier beaches (especially great if you’ve got beach-loving kids!), though it can be noisier and more expensive.
Day 2: (20 min drive to Qualicum Beach)
Pre-download Google Maps
Cell data can be spotty anywhere north of Qualicum Beach! While you’re on wifi, I recommend downloading a free offline version of the area on your phone’s Google Maps App (lasts 15 days, free).
Qualicum Beach Day!
What’s better than a beach day?! Qualicum Beach is long and shallow! At low tide it exposes vast sandy miles of beach (the high tide shoreline is rocky) where you can build sandcastles, draw in the sand, play games and walk barefoot. At high tide you can walk out in the ocean water across the sandy flats for a really long time before the water ever gets more than waist deep, and bonus: the shallow water is warm!). There is a promenade with a walking path, trees and picnic tables that runs along the 4 kms of beach. Park your car on either side of the 19 Island Highway West in Qualicum Beach – free showers and public washrooms are located at 2811 BC-19A (to the right of the Shore Restaurant). For a quieter beach, head to the Yambury Road Beach Access, which is rocky but perfect to lean against driftwood and read and watch the ocean waves. Tidal charts can be checked in advance to plan your day! (beach and parking are free)
Beach Tip #1: If the beach is noisy, bring headphones and use a free white noise app’s ocean sounds to listen to waves instead of people, as you nap (download the app & the sound while in Wi-Fi if you have limited data).
Beach Tip #2: The Bargain Bazaar downtown has lots of water shoes, floaties, beach things and crazy glue (if you break your prescription sunglasses like I did)! It’s near the large Qualicum Foods grocery store that has a huge deli with handy grab-and-go foods. The grocery store parking lot also has public bathrooms in the little park next to it.
Tacos with a View
For lunch, we zipped up the road 15 mins to the Tidal Taco Shack in Qualicum Bay. We ordered a shrimp burrito and fish tacos and explored the tidal flats at low tide while we waited food, and then ate them sitting on the edge of the bay (Cash only! Open Noon until ‘sometime in the afternoon’)
Qualicum Beach Heritage forest
As it starts to get hot outside, why not cool off by wandering through the shade of a giant forest? The pathway is an easy walk with no major elevation gains and it takes about 30 mins for the loop (2.3 km). It’s silent, beautiful, and will restore the soul! The real trick is to try and walk straight while looking way up at the tall trees! Park for free just off Crescent Road. (free)
Day 3: Parkville Beach, Farm, Cathedral Grove, Combs, Hole-in-the-Wall (2-hour drive)
Parkville Beach
The beach at Parksville is very similar to Qualicum Beach (long beach that’s sandy at low tide and warm shallow water at high tide), but with a nice wooden boardwalk for strolling, a huge green shady park and a massive playground. Check out the tidal charts in advance to plan your day! Park for free at the Community Park – 193 Beachside Dr. (free, lots of parking, washrooms and water bottle filling station in the park)
MorningStar Farm
Pick up a self guided tour map at the front gate or the store entrance and follow the signs with numbers posted on the buildings. Pet llamas, rabbits, goats and sheep (handwashing stations throughout), learn about cheese making and you can buy cheese at the store – we got an old smoked cheese that was amazing and created a delicious charcuterie for supper! (11-5 daily, free, lots of parking)
Coombs Old Country Market (aka Goats on Roof)
Goats on Roof (Old Country Market) in Coombs is a lot of fun! Be prepared for crowds! The market store has 3 real live goats that live up on the roof on the outside, and inside it has an incredible selection of unique children’s toys (at surprisingly low prices), a whole grocery store and deli, T-shirts and household goods. Head up the hill to grab some ice cream at the Billy Gruff Creamery or try out the donut shop directly behind the market. Email a goat if you have questions before going. Parking can be tricky (lots available, just be patient!) and the road traffic can be slow as people walk across the highway and stop as they see the goats! (9-7 daily) Next door to the Old Country Market is the eclectic Coombs Emporium and Statue Square, with lots of quirky things to explore as well. (free to wander around and park)
Cathedral Grove
This was a major highlight of the trip – an incredible old growth forest in Macmillan Provincial Park, right on the Alberni Highway 4. There are two walking loops (both worth exploring – one with a wooden walkway and one that is less restricted where you can take pictures standing on and inside the gigantic trees. Both paths are a combined distance of 1.6 km walk which takes 35 mins (unless you’re tree geeks like us, then it will take you 2 hours!). There are parking lots on either side of the highway and along the highway by the trails – take extreme care when crossing the highway to the other loop and watch for cars. (free, outhouses on both sides of the highway)
Hole in the Wall Hike
Such a beautiful spot with a keyhole waterfall and creek to play in, just 10 min drive past Cathedral Grove on Alberni Highway 4. The Hike is short – 30 mins return trip – all downhill there and so it is all uphill back, but it isn’t difficult or overly steep – definitely worth it! The trail has wooden signs as you go, so you can’t get lost. Bring water-shoes if you want to explore more, walking in the creek, building inukshuks and cairns, or swimming. I tried climbing up the waterfall as I’d seen others do this, but even though the water level was low, it was still too dangerous and very slippery in bare feet and I wouldn’t recommend it, as it gets pretty sketchy halfway up (if you break a limb it would be a long hike back)! Instead, we were told later that there is a walking trail that goes in behind it. To find the trailhead, as you near Port Alberni, park on either side of the highway on pullouts just before Coombs Candy Store (note that you cannot use their parking lot for the hike), be very careful if you are crossing the road! There were only 2 other groups there when we went, but we’ve heard it can get quite busy. (free)
Day 4: Oyster River, Saratoga Beach, Nymph Falls (2-hour drive)
Oyster River Potholes
An amazing hidden gem that even most locals don’t even know about! The riverbed has been worn down by the clear emerald waters into round outlets creating large ‘potholes’ you can sit in and explore the unique landscape. The river water is refreshingly cool, but not freezing. This natural phenomenon is a unique outdoor playground. Be sure to test out the depth of the water first, if you jump in off one of the low cliffs, to make sure it is deep enough with no hidden rock outcroppings. Bring towels, water shoes for better footing, and a spirit for adventure! The rocks on the sides are great to warm yourself in the sun on too. Bring a picnic and spend some time exploring. I can’t say enough about this spot, it’s truly magnificent! Drive north on Inland highway until you see the bridge that goes over Oyster River (look for a bridge sign). Park on the North side of the bridge & walk down under the bridge. There is a trail on your left-hand side, leading down to the river. Go through an metal animal gate opening; keep following the trail down & you’ll see the potholes in the river. When you leave, you can’t turn around on the highway right away so keep going north and then either turn left on Iron River Rd/Cranberry Lane to turn around, or if you’re headed to Saratoga Beach you can keep going North on Highway 19, turn right on Jubilee Parkway and right on South Island Highway 19-A. (free)
Saratoga Beach
An expansive beach cove with soft sand at the top of the beach and when the tide is out there is a huge expanse of sand to play frisbee, draw a badminton squares in the sand, build sand castles, play bocce, put your beach chair in the shallow waves etc. At high tide you can play in the shallow warmer water. Check out the tidal charts to plan your day and what order you visit the sights in, if you want to arrive for low/high tide. Park just down the road at the ‘beach access‘ parking lot, which has an outhouse bathroom and change-room (free)
Nymph Falls
Another of nature’s great water adventures! When the water levels are low (do not attempt at high water or spring run off!), after you hike down the gentle wheelchair accessible trail to the waterfall, there is a rope you can climb down, to splash in the lower pools (or hike down the side). Do not attempt to go in the rushing waterfall section (extreme danger!!!!), but if it’s safe to do so in the lower pools it’s fun to sit and swim in the crystal clear very slow moving water. (free, parking lot, several outhouses along the path)
Optional extra – Elk River suspension bridge
Beautiful and easy 1.8 km trail hike (35 mins) to a large waterfall viewing platform includes a great suspension bridge! (free)
Optional extra – Horne Lake Caves
Take a self guided tour (check online for details as they aren’t always open and see what gear you’ll need), or go one of several guided tour ($55-$200).
Optional extra – Deep Bay Marine University Station
Open to the public at certain times, the University of Victoria’s research station has aquariums and touch tanks and is a great educational look at the local marine life and environment. Pick up sea urchins and anemones, see the huge skeleton of a sea creature and play games. Also seen on The Amazing Race TV show in 2019! (cost is $5-15).
Day 5: Bowser/Qualicum Beach, Lake Cowichan, Lizard Lake, Fairy Lake, Avatar Grove, Port Renfrew (2.75 hr drive)
Pre-download Google Maps
There is no cell signal from Lake Cowichan to Port Renfrew! While you’re on wifi, I recommend downloading an offline version of the area on your phone’s Google Maps App (lasts 15 days, free).
Float Trip
Relax in the sun and beautiful surroundings with a float down Cowichan River on inner tubes! The 2.5-3 hour long gentle float down 5 km of river water starts out with a slow meandering float on the wide river, then going under a few bridges it speeds up a little as you go through some mini-rapids where the river gets a bit narrower, ending in a wider pool of water where the shuttle picks you up. There are lots of shallow sections of the river, but you should know how swim if you want to go. Bring water bottles, apply lots of sunscreen, have ziplock bags or floating coolers for anything you don’t want to get wet, wear a swimsuit or rash-guard and water shoes if you have them. You can ask for a rope if you want to tie your floaties together so they don’t drift apart. Lake Cowichan Tube Shack (singles, doubles or family passes) or Orka Adventures (for larger group bookings) cost about $20 for tube rentals include the 10 min shuttle ride (families of 4 for $60) with tub ‘upgrades’ available.
Stock Up on Supplies/Groceries
Port Renfrew doesn’t have a lot of selection for food, supplies or restaurants, and their ‘flexible’ hours tend to change frequently. You can stock up at the Lake Cowichan Country Grocer for what you’ll need (keeping in mind whether your accommodations have a fridge or not, and how long the drive is for how fridge/freeze dependent your food is). Sandwiches and granola bars are great to have on hand as a backup in case your hike takes longer than planned and the Renfrew Pub is closed when you get back. Lake Cowichan a bit more expensive than the larger cities, but it’s cheaper then Port Renfrew, and then your fridge food isn’t sitting in the car while you’re on the river float for 3 hours.
Optional extra – Gordon Bay Provincial Park
Nearby Gordon Bay Provincial Park is great for swimming in Lake Cowichan or hiking Gordon Bay Point Trail (1.3 km, 20 mins) or Honeymoon Bay Nature Trail (0.8 km) for a quick stretch of the legs. (free)
Harris Creek Sitka Spruce Recreation Site
On the Pacific Marine Road, you’ll see a ‘Point of Interest in 1 km’ sign for the Harris Creek Sitka Spruce Recreation Site ahead – pull over at the highway parking area and stop for a quick walk to an absolutely enormous tree!!! A truly amazing sight plus a great time to get up and move after being on the bumpy road. (located 10 km north of the Lizard Lake Campground, free)
Harris Canyon Bridge
If you’re like me and get car sick, this is a lovely spot to pull over before or after the bridge to get some fresh air and take a look (being careful for traffic and the short bridge railings). (located about 3-4 km north of Lizard Lake Campground, free)
Lizard Lake Provincial Recreation Site (campground with beach)
A beautiful spot to swim, walk and rest, with great day-use areas and free parking. Lizard Lake Provincial Rec Site has two free parking areas: one is a left-hand turn off the highway onto a service road with parking on the gravel side road, and the other parking is a lot on the left side a little further along on the highway (free, outhouses)
Fairy Lake
Stop to see the mysterious bonsai tree growing out in the middle of the lake. The best lookout place to see it, is a pullout on the side of Pacific Marine Road, about 0.5 km east of the entrance to the Fairy Lake Recreate Site Campground.
Avatar Grove
Surround yourself in a spectacular old growth forest with some of the largest and gnarliest trees you’ll ever see (so wide that you can walk right through the middle of the hollow trees) at Avatar Grove! The drive to get there is part of the adventure, with some rough patches of road (our Toyota Corolla rental car made it no problem driving moderately slowly, but if you’re driving a vehicle you cherish you may not want to drive it!) which takes about 30 min drive from Port Renfrew, and goes through a forestry security and RCMP checkpoint stopping all cars to look for logging protesters (you can search online for updates to see if the road is open or closed, or just drive up and they’ll let you know at the friendly check-stop) just before the bridge. The 1.6 km trail and boardwalk span both sides of the road – the southern lower trail on the right side of the road is an easier walk with a short loop showcasing some very uniquely shaped trees, and the north upper trail on the left side of the road has many sets of very steep stairs for a harder climb up to ‘Canada’s Gnarliest Tree’. Park on the side of the road by the trailheads. Bring bug spray, good walking shoes and a water bottle. Big Lonely Doug (Canada’s second largest tree which stands alone in an empty clear cut field) is about 6 km further down the road, but we were told it wasn’t recommended to visit as the road becomes very, very rough. (free)
Yurt Glamping (glamour-camping)
We stayed in a Yurt! Quite the unique experience to be surrounded by nature but with all the luxuries of a shower, flush toilet and sunroof! The deck was surrounded by trees and mist at night. The hot tub by the Lodge was amazing to come home to after hiking each day! Soule Creek Cheewhat Yurt $250/night, check-in at 3 pm and check-out at 11 am, hot breakfast included)
Day 6 – Botanical Beach & Sombrio Beach (1 hour drive)
Cellphones – US/Canada Towers
Check your cell phone – when we arrived in Port Renfrew my cell sent me a text saying I was receiving cell signals from the USA across the bay and could be charged – I put it on airplane mode so I could still use wifi, download maps at the hotel, etc. When I turned my cell back on again in Sooke I had no problems, but I was charged $0.02 for the 1 minute it took for me to get the phone onto airplane mode.
Botanical Beach
These fun-to-explore tidal pools are best at lower tides (around 1.2 meters or less), so check the tidal charts and decide when to to the Botanical Beach (morning or afternoon). The tidal pools are glassy and clear, but please don’t put your fingers in them, as it will contaminate them from your sunscreen, bug spray and natural oils. Hike the 2.9 km (45-60 mins) easy loop trail to the signed Botanical Beach entrance (not botany bay), then head left along the bay to the large sandstone ridge, climb up onto it and check out the tide pools, keeping a bigger distance than you think you’ll need from the ocean waves, as a large rouge wave could suddenly crash down on a person. If the tide is low you can also go to the far right side of the bay to check out the pools there as well and see the beach next to it. Be aware that there can be bears in the area. We were lucky enough to see one from a far distance. Bears look slow but they can run faster than a horse! There is a handy outhouse on the main trail just a few feet further past the Botanical Beach entrance. (free, outhouses, bring water shoes if you have them for extra grip)
Pub Grub
On a cold foggy day, the seafood chowder at the Renfrew Pub will go a long way in warming you up! Lunch at the Renfrew pub is lovely, though often very busy (expect to wait, especially at dinner time). The pub is generally open 11:30am – 7 pm, but like everything in Port Renfrew, it may close early or stay open later as hours are ‘flexible’. (onsite parking, note that they have a take-away kitchen window for faster food service if you don’t want to wait to sit in the pub)
Sombrio Beach’s Hidden Emerald Canyon
Sombrio Beach hike is a 3.2 km round trip walk to a spectacular secret picturesque waterfall in a mossy emerald green cave. Hike down the hill from the parking lot on a wide trail for about 10 minutes to the beach, then turn left and walk south along the beach for about 20 minutes (it is slow going as it is rocky). There are some very small streams, but the first real creek that runs from the forest into the Pacific ocean with several very large driftwood pieces at its mouth (and lots of people walking in and out of it), is where you want to stop and explore. Switch to water shoes as you’ll be walking directly in the shallow river. Just a few metres up the creek you’ll see the emerald green canyon and hear the hidden waterfall inside it. People will usually be politely taking turns entering the canyon to take pictures by the falls, and may offer to take turns taking photos of each other. There are some lovely sandy patches along the beach if you want to enjoy the beach and sun for the rest of the day! Note that the road to the parking lot was recently moved (new signs weren’t up yet in 2021) and the new road entrance is about 100 meters west of the entrance on google maps (the old entrance has a cement block barricade) – it’s a 3 km drive down to the parking lot on a rough road – go slow and turn left at the Y halfway down the hill. (free, outhouses)
Day 7 – Sandcut Falls, China/Mystic Beach (1.75 hour drive)
Sandcut Beach Falls
One of the best stops on the trip!! When the water level is low you can sometimes walk behind one of the waterfalls, swing on the rope swing in front of the waterfalls and clamber up to the top of the waterfall to explore up the riverbed. Sandcut Beach Falls is a 10 min hike through a beautiful forest (can be muddy), when you reach the beach turn left and walk along gravelly beach for 5 mins to the falls. (free, outhouse in the parking lot, bring water shoes for better grip on the rocks if you walk behind or above the waterfall)
China Beach Day Use Area or Mystic Beach
Two options from the China Beach Parking Lot (located 10 min drive west of Sandcut Beach): 1. China Beach Day Use Area trail – easier 2 km hike from the China Beach south lower parking lot down a big hill on a wide path to a long beach with a mix of sand and rocks where people play frisbee or wade into the ocean (45-60 min round trip), or 2. Mystic Beach trail – more difficult 4 km (2-hour round trip) Juan De Fuca hiking trail from the China Beach west upper parking lot to the rocky Mystic Beach via a suspension bridge in an old growth forest and a reward of seeing a waterfall at the end of the beach (waterfall is large in the rainy season, small in summer). There is an elephant seal that frequents Mystic Beach – watch from a distance and don’t approach or bother the seal – it is a protected wild mammal, plus it can bite! Note that the Mystic Beach hike is more of a intermediate-level hike, which has a lot of up and down over uneven ground with lots of tree roots to climb over – keep a look out for the orange markers on the trees to make sure you’re hiking the in right direction. It’s gorgeous, but if you’re out of shape like me, it may be a tougher hike than you’re used to. If you want an easier hike to a similar beach (but no suspension bridge or waterfall or potential seal), the China Beach day use area hike is a nice alternate option. Either way, bring good shoes for walking, especially if it has been raining – it can be extremely muddy! (free, outhouses at the parking lot and at both beach entrances)
Day 8 – Port Renfrew to Victoria (2 hour drive)
Shirley Delicious
Stop in a Shirley Delicious for a café break with an amazing baking assortment (between Jordan River and Sooke).
Sheringham Distillery
If you love Gin or other spirits like Vodka or Akvavit, this is a great place to stop in Sooke! The Sheringham Distillery is open 11-5 daily for free tastings in an unassuming warehouse, with a view into how the distillery works, and lots of great selections for purchase. (free, no bathrooms onsite)
Optional extra – Creyke Point hike
A short 30 minute, easy 1.6 km loop loop trail out to a really cool ocean lookout.
Optional extra – Whittys Lagoon
A lovely hiking trail with arbutus trees to the beach by a waterfall, 45 mins, 2.6 km, 46 meter elevation (all at the start of the trail).
Hatley Castle
You may recognize the Hatley Castle, located on the Royal Roads University campus, from Arrow or two X-Men movies which were filmed there. The castle was closed when we were there (normally you can book paid guided walking tours to see inside), but we could still walk around the exterior and enter the beautiful and expansive gardens which have different themes and wandering live peacocks. (washrooms, open 10 am to 4 pm, garden entrance is currently free but that could change, castle entrance with tour is $20/adult & $12 for youth/kids (age 5 and under free) – be sure to ask ahead if there is a wedding or event that day which may close the castle partially or fully, parking is $1/hr or $8 for all day)
Optional extra – Millstream Miniature Llamas
Book a farm tour to see the mini lamas! (call in advance to book, may close by 3 pm, $10/person)
Optional extra – Malhahat
Located 30 mins north of Victoria is the new Malhahat Skywalk with a pretty walk though the arbutus trees leading to a spiral ramp that goes up 32 metres with glass railings and 365 degree views, to a stunning lookout point. There is also a fun adventure net at the top for the brave to walk on and a slide to go back down. ($32/adult, $19 youth/kids & under 5 years is free) There’s also a fancy Villa Eyre resort nearby which has great views and happy hours (Mon to Fri 2-5 pm).
Optional extra – Beaches!
There are some great beaches around Victoria – we went to Willows Beach with soft sand, lots of driftwood to lean up against and read, great views of Mount Baker in the distance, plenty of free parking nearby, and a mix of sun/shade spots. There are plenty of food places nearby to grab takeout sushi, pizza, etc. (free, washrooms, concession stand open seasonally)
Return Rental Car
As parking in Victoria can be expensive and you don’t really need it in Victoria, we choose to return our rental in downtown Victoria (it didn’t cost any extra to pick up the car at the airport and return it downtown). We booked through Costco Travel using Budget Rentals, as it was the cheapest at that time and the Costco booking gives a bonus of two drivers instead of one drive for no extra charge. We drove 1,177 km! Whoa!
Victoria Chinatown Apartment
We stayed in a lovely quiet apartment in Chinatown (in one of the gated narrow alleys close to Fan Tan Alley) through AirBnB ($175/nt) and there are tons of great condos all over downtown, depending on what you need. It takes 10-15 minutes to walk from Chinatown on the far north end of downtown to the Parliament Building on the south end of downtown, so everything is pretty close if you book a place anywhere downtown!
Day 9: Victoria, BC (no driving)
Walking Food & History Tour
We don’t usually take tours (we like to explore!), but we were recommended the A Taste of Victoria walking tour, and it was fantastic! It’s a great way to get the lay of the land for Victoria and your stomach will be very full when you’re done! The tour runs twice a day and Andy weaves interesting stories of Victoria’s history as you walk through downtown and get to meet the owners of multiple restaurants who are incredibly passionate about their food ($60/person, includes food)
Walk around Victoria Old Town and Chinatown
The food tour ends at the Victoria Visitor Centre, where you can pick up a free map with historic sights listed on it (or just use your phone map). Visit the nearby Empress Hotel and Parliament (more on that below), wander the unique streets, pop into another world in Munro’s Books, clap for the outdoor buskers, and get a sense for the old town. In Chinatown, visit the gate of harmonious interest, squeeze through the narrow fan tan alley and eat udon soup with little bowls of treats to pop in a hot broth at the Little Yunnan restaurant on Fisgard Street. Finish it off at a beautiful and delicious French pastry shop in Chinatown called La Roux.
Empress Hotel
The magnificent Fairmont Empress Hotel is free to wander through the main areas to see all the beautiful renovations. Or stay for the most expensive Afternoon Tea in Victoria ($85/person) – I’d recommend tea at the Buchart Gardens instead! The hotel is located across the street from the inner harbour and 1 block from the Parliament Building. (free, washrooms by the shopping area)
Optional extra – Parliament Building Tour
The British Columbia Parliament Building provides free and entertaining tours by hired period-era actors, on a first come/serve basis. Pick up your timed entry ticket on the parliament driveway and come 10 mins early for a security screening (bring photo id). 10am- 4 pm, daily tours are 45 mins long. The architect Francis Rattenbury had quite the life of scandal, intrigue and murder. Little known fact – you can have lunch or breakfast in the Parliamentary Dinning Room in the Parliament building 8:30-2 pm with very reasonable prices! Book a restaurant reservation or drop in – you’ll need to check in with security (bring photo id) at the wheel-chair accessible door to the right of the large main exterior staircase – ask any of the guides and they’ll direct you. (tours are free, washrooms onsite)
Explore Beacon Hill Park
Beacon Hill Park is a beautiful and huge public park (200 acres) with the world’s 4th tallest totem pole (at 127 feet tall it is also the the tallest story pole), a large variety of manicured flowering gardens, several ponds and fountains, a children’s farm petting zoo, playgrounds, wandering peacocks, a moss lady living plant sculpture (located behind the bandshell), the Mile ‘0’ marker of the TransCanada Highway and a rocky ocean beach. It can be reached via a short walk south of downtown. (park is free and has 3 sets of washrooms; children’s farm is open 10-5 daily with admission by donation)
Optional extra – Royal BC Museum
This museum is located across from the Parliament Building, and often has interesting rotating exhibits. If it’s a really hot or rainy day, this could make a good option! ($26/adult, open 10-6 daily)
Optional extra – Craigdarroch Castle
If you love castles, the Craigdarroch Castle is a beautiful one! It’s a 30 min walk from downtown or take a bus along Fort Street ($2.50 one-way or $5 for an all-day pass from driver with exact change cash). Buy online tickets for $18.50 for adults, $14.50 youth and $9.50 kids. (10:30-4)
Optional extra – Art Gallery of Greater Victoria
The Art Gallery of Greater Victoria has some Emily Carr paintings in an 1899 Victorian Mansion. Located close to Craigdarroch Castle, it has entry by donation on Thursdays at 5-9 pm, or regular admission of $13/adult or $2.50 youth/kids. (10-5 daily)
Day 10: Victoria (no driving)
Harbour Walk
Take a walk along the David Foster Harbour Pathway. The water’s edge pathway starts near Reeson Park and goes to Fisherman’s Wharf where 30 houses float in a community. You can grab fresh seafood at either Red Fish Blue Fish on the pier downtown or at Barb’s Fish & Chips at Fisherman’s Warf. Stroll around Fisherman’s Wharf, take an eco-tour, rent a Sea kayak and explore. Sometimes one of the shops on the wharf will sell extra fish to feed the seals (beware the seagulls trying to steal your fish and remember that seals have teeth and can bite – toss them fish and don’t hand-feed)
Tall Ship Experience
Try your hand at hoisting the sails or climb out onto the bow sprit over the water at the front of the tall ship, on this stunning classic wooden heritage boat: The Duen. The boat gleams in the sun and glides smoothly across the waves, without a loud motor or crashing bumpy waves. You likely won’t see whales or feel a strong breeze in your hair like on a whale watching boat, but the elegant and gentle ride on this beautiful vessel is a real experience all in itself. The Captain will let you steer and the First Mate will show you the ropes if you want to help with the sails. Bring sunscreen and your own water bottles and snacks (there is a washroom aboard). Great for adults and kids alike! Call to book stating which date/time and how many people (we booked the day before and got the last 2 spots). The Duen departs from the marina across from the Empress Hotel (the First Mate will let you onto the locked pier ramp) at 10 am and 2 pm for an interactive 3 hour sail ($125/adult, $115/youth, $105/child, plus tax and tip, charged via credit card when the boat returns to port) or try a shorter evening cruise (1.5 hours for $95/adult, $85/youth, $75/child plus tax and tip)
Optional extra – Whale Watching Tour
There are lots of exciting whale watch tours available for approximately $120-140/adult. Check out the Tourism Victoria website for special deals like 25% off of a 3-hr tour catamaran or 20% off an eco-tour. (10 am or 2 pm daily).
Craft Brewery Walk
Start at Canoe Brewing happy hour (2-5 pm, unique craft brews on a big outdoor patio on the water with lots of action, $5-6 for a wide variety of drinks, $4 fries), then head one block north over to Herald Street Brew Works (lots of indoor seating, they’re the new brew on the scene, great pizzas), then go northwest a few blocks to Philips Brewing (well established, great $5 craft brews and tasty $2 mocktails like Moscow mules or mimosas, plus $5 giant pretzels). If you’re still standing, then Vancouver Island Brewing is 5 mins further (closed Mondays). Further out (another 15-20 min walk) is Moon Under Water (great brews on a patio with good food and an indoor distillery lounge), Hoyne Brewing and Il Sauvage Brew (unique beers in a warehouse). Other craft breweries closer to Chinatown and downtown are: Whistle Buoy Brewing Company in Market Square with flights and $5.50 beers (Drake next door has an outdoor patio with lots of local beers on tap too!) and Swans Brewery/Pub.
Optional extra – Thetis Lake
Needs some nature? Go for a swim or hike at Thetis Lake. Public transit takes 20 minutes to go northwest of downtown (bus 50 or 53) and then it is a 1 km (15 min walk) into the park.
Sunset and Twinkling Lights
Watch the sunset from the Inner Harbour and the lights start to sparkle! Walk across the Johnson Street Bridge on Pandora Avenue to join the Songhees Walkway and Westsong Walkway on the northeast side of the harbour for some great views of the Inner Harbour! The Spinnaker Gastropub has great craft brews, food and harbour views.
Day 11: Victoria’s Butchart Gardens (transit 1.5 hrs or drive 1 hr)
Butchart Gardens
Some people can do the gardens in 4 hours, but we spent the whole day! Depending on timing, you may be able to see the evening illuminations and the spectacular fireworks on Saturdays. This is a great place to take family portrait pictures – you’ll see lots of people dressing up for Grad photos, birthday photos, etc. The Butchart Gardens changes their flowers each quarter (they have 50 gardeners), and is spectacular year round. Your first stop past the entrance gates is Waterwheel Square, where they have washrooms, shops (you can purchase official flower seeds & tea) and a Visitor Centre where you can pick up a map, ask questions and leave your bags in the secure baggage check for free (keep the baggage ticket to retrieve it at the end of the day). Below is a description of afternoon tea, each of the garden sections and how to get to the gardens from downtown:
Afternoon Tea at Butchart Gardens
$43 for an incredible afternoon tea experience (and it’s cheaper than the Empress Hotel afternoon tea at $85 unless you count the cost of the garden entrance fee). Reserve ahead (its very popular) and preview the menu for tea in the Dining Room or outdoor Garden Patio (11:30-3 daily). The afternoon tea comes with a three tier platter (serving everything on the menu) filled with amazing sandwiches, hot scones with cream, savory pastries and sweet desserts, and a choice of many teas exclusive to the gardens. Your server will guide you through the tea (let them know if you have allergies), but good tea etiquette is to start with the bottom tray and work you way up to the sweets on the top tray. It is quite a lot of food, and you can get a take-out container if you don’t finish it all. Or if you’re not feeling formal, you can catch a more casual cafeteria-style hot lunch in the Blue Poppy (a transformed former greenhouse).
Sunken Garden
Designed from an old rock quarry by Jennie Butchart, the sunken gardens showcase how nature’s beauty can transform an area. Check out the growing mossy floral sculptures in the shape of animals near the cabin, then descend down the stairs to immerse yourself in the flowers, among the many little winding pathways, with statues dotted about. There is a staircase up to a viewpoint in the middle, which is sometimes open (can be slippery). At the end of the sunken garden is the lovely dancing Ross Fountain, with nearby drinking water fountains on the bog garden pathway.
Carousal and Bandstand
Although they were closed when we were there, the carousal looks very beautiful and the bandstand had lots of room for outdoor entertainment. We picked up an ice cream cone at the concession by the children’s play area and dragon fountain.
Rose Garden
Stunning array of rose of all sizes, colors and smells. Lots of hummingbirds and bees who were loving the roses too! Beautiful long archway paths covered in roses which make for a lovely backdrop.
Japanese Garden
Check out the Sturgeon Fountain on the way to the red gates of the very tranquil Japanese Garden. There are lots of little spots for reflection and contemplation. Don’t miss the ‘hole in the hedge’ view of the ocean, or the Boar Scaring device that fills up with water and then tips of to make a loud knocking sound when it tips over to empty out. This is a nice and shady part of the garden – great to visit if you need to escape the hot sun.
Italian Garden
Walk by the stunning Star Pond and into the manicured and curated Italian garden, which has doors clipped right through the towering hedges, floral arrangements in incredible shapes and a long elegant shallow pond. It is all very stylish and magnificent. Plus it has a spot to get gelato!
Mediterranean Garden
This often missed small garden is on the way to the car parking lots (across from the seahorse parking section) and is filled with lush exotic flowers.
Parking, Transit, Garden Entrance Fees
The Butchart Gardens are about 20 km north of downtown Victoria and depending on the time of day it can take 25-35 mins to drive (car parking is free). We took the Victoria Transit bus 75 for 45 mins right to the gardens (be sure to check the transit schedule so you don’t miss the last bus back!) which cost $5 for an all-day pass (unlimited bus use and bus transfers) from the driver with exact change – note that any adult with an all-day pass can bring up to 4 children age 12 and under with them for free (the bus was cheaper than renting a car for the day). Or you can pay $2.50 per person for each bus you take (with exact change cash). We used Google Maps on our cellphones with the ‘transit’ mode with the date/time selected on and it was great to see when the bus was coming, if it was arriving late or early, and where we were on the route as we went. Note that the route shows it dropping you off on the street outside the gardens and walking 10 mins into the parking lot, but in reality it goes right into the gardens and stops a special transit shelter right across from the entrance while the gardens are open (after hours, it only goes to the street outside, as the road down to the gardens is locked and closed). Butchart Gardens are open daily, but the hours change seasonally so be sure to check ahead. The entrance fees change per season ($36/adult in summer, youth are half the price of an adult, and kids (ages 5-12) are $3 – buy at the entrance or online).
Optional extra – Tod Inlet Trail
From the Butchart Gardens parking lot you can walk to the end of Benvenuto Ave or walk along Wallace Drive to join the Tod Inlet Trail in Gowlland Tod Provincial Park. It’s on Google Maps, to help you find it (there are multiple entrances you can use). The walk is an easy 2.6 km hike by the ocean, past some interesting trees, ocean pilings, an old clay mill and a stream (free).
Returning Home
Our time on Vancouver Island was sadly over, so we headed from the Butchart Gardens back to the Victoria Airport. To take transit buses to the airport, use the $5 all-day bus pass you bought from the bus driver with exact cash when you came to Butchart, as you’ll need to transfer buses (or pay $2.50 per person for each bus you take). It takes about 45-75 mins (depending on time of day) on 2 buses from Butchart Gardens to the airport, or an hour to the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal (one bus). Note that buses don’t run 24/7 to the airport/ferry, so if your flight/boat is really early in the morning or late at night, transit may not work for you. If you still have your rental car, driving from Butchart to the airport or the ferry only takes about 20-30 mins. A taxi from Butchart Gardens costs around $45 to the airport and around $60 to Swartz Bay Ferry.
Or, if you’re going from downtown instead of from Butchart Gardens, the bus takes a little over an hour to the airport (takes 2 buses, so buy the all-day pass for $5 from the driver with exact change) or an hour to Swartz Bay Ferry (1 bus). You can book a shuttle or taxi from downtown to the airport which takes about 30 mins depending on the time of day, and costs around $25-35/person for a shuttle and around $70 for a taxi, plus tip). Or if you still have your rental car, you can drive it right back to the airport! For the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal, it takes a taxi around 30 mins from downtown and it is around $90 for a taxi, plus tip.
Happy travels to you all!
I hope this itinerary inspires your next adventure with lots of must-see spots to choose from! Thanks everyone!